First International Meeting of Perfumery Professions

What is the Future of Perfumery?

The International Perfume Foundation

Conferences shed light on industry issues and a major problem for the European Perfume Industry

PARIS, ILE DE FRANCE, FRANCE, July 10, 2022 /EINPresswire.com/ -- TOUS AU PARFUM! For its first edition, The International Perfume Foundation's Perfume Celebration in Paris was a great success!
Experts came from China, Australia, India, Indonesia, USA, Canada, Saudi Arabia, Dubai, Algeria, France, UK, Germany, Italy and Spain.

Homages were given to Jean Kerleo, Master Perfumer of Patou and founder of the Osmotheque and to Pierre Dinand, Master Perfume Bottle Designer.

Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg, Perfume Bottles and Cosmetics Expert and Appraiser showed us the most beautiful packaging from the 1920’s followed by a round table about the future of packaging and the need to create beautiful collectible packaging before the industry could sustainably recycle packaging. “To be recycled, all parts (plastic, glass, metal) should be separated, and it is not the case now but waiting for packaging to change brands could create beautiful collectible packaging” said Creezy Courtoy, IPF Founder and Chair.

Regarding the supply chain: “We will need 30 years to relocalize “ said Ivan Borrego Valverde, General Manager at Beauty Cluster, the largest Spanish cluster on cosmetics and perfumes, Veronique Coty, President of the François Coty Association explained how she hardly found the last artisans to create her “Spoturno” perfume bottle. It was very informative as she had all the processes filmed and even learned how to create frosted glass stoppers with this ancient method not involving any plastic material.
Her conclusion is we need urgently to give more work to preserve these artisans, and help them to transmit their heritages to the next generations before they totally disappear.

Chen Li Morisset, President Rose Road Group and Founder of CABIO, the China Organic Beauty Association, confirmed the fact that Chinese are looking for Natural Perfume Brands. “An IPF China bureau in Beijing could support Natural Perfume Brands entering the Chinese Market, we have already signed agreements with the IPF Teacher’s Academy for teaching their curriculum in China”, she said.

Terry Johnson, IPF Vice Chairman and Chairman of the International SEOS (Sustainable Essential Oils Standards) Committee explained the increasing demand for natural perfumes in the USA and 2 years of Committee work creating the SEOS standards for certifying the whole essential oil supply chain.
Regarding the cohabitation of synthetic-natural, Françoise Rapp explained the difference between working with naturals and working with synthetics: “Most synthetic perfumers coming to my Natural Perfumery course have never touch naturals and have no idea, they think it is impossible to work with natural while all perfumers in the past were only using natural” she said.
After sharing views all parties decided to work hand in hand towards a positive future for the industry: the major issue concerning all perfumers: perfume should be removed from the Cosmetic Directive as every year there are some restriction in the use of natural, these modifications in perfume formula are changing the smell of perfumes: consumers don’t recognise their perfumes and brands are spending fortune recomposing and changing all their packaging and labelling.
As perfume is not a cosmetic, we smell perfume, we don’t have to put perfume on the skin and perfumers should be free to use lavender, rose… “The lobby at the EU Commission in favour of the big lab is putting all farmers in danger” said Pascal Morabito. Rachel Binder explained that American Perfumers have much more freedom than European Perfumers and the Natural Market is growing fast. “We need more than this day for this discussion. We need to get all actors of this industry involved in the protection of the perfume heritage and the freedom to use natural in Europe.” said Creezy Courtoy, IPF Founder and Chair.

Regarding the future of Selective Distribution, after a visit in the Metaverse, everyone explained the way they were distributing their perfumes. “We are handling our distribution ourselves” said Gilles Thevenin, owner House of Lubin. This is what more and more niche brands are doing and it is an issue for distributors who are losing part of the market.

After a networking lunch, Pierre Dinand signed his book and amazed everyone telling the Opium story. Replying to the audience’s questions, we could have listened to him forever. He was with Jules, his grandson who is working with him and is in admiration for his grandfather “I will never stop honoring him and I hope to become one day as good as him,” he said.

Shaneela Rowah Al-Qamar, expert in Oriental Perfumes and Traditions talked about the importance of preserving oud for the GCC countries and what was done by the Zayed Foundation.
Magali Quenet, expert in sourcing raw material, shared a passion for oud fumigation.
“Education is the most important tool, and so we need to educate growers and harvesters which is part of our program at the Teacher’s Academy,” said Creezy Courtoy. Patrick Worms, President EURAF the European Agroforestry Federation confirmed the importance of protecting farmers to preserve the heritage while educating them and teaching them good practices.

Hamdane Allalou, President PPAM Essential Oils Algeria and most recently Chairman IPF Algeria told us the importance of perfume and medicinal plants in the Algerian heritage and the plan to have IPF help development in the region for replanting, educating and certifying the raw material supply chain.

Andrej Babicky, Certified Natural Perfumer and expert in raw material extraction explained various ancient methods like enfleurage and maceration, his curriculum at the IPF Teacher’s Academy. This was very well documented and afterward Rachel Binder, Certified Natural Perfumer and Sommelier told us the secret of implementing perfumes with these methods. “There is an important link to make between the fruits you eat and the maceration you can make with them to be used afterwards in perfumes, my experience as a sommelier lead me to understand this. What we can do in the Us as a perfumer is totally impossible in Europe due to the EU Cosmetic Directive, this is the reason there are so many certified natural perfumers in the US and so few in France." she said.

Creezy Courtoy
INTERNATIONAL PERFUME FOUNDATION
+33 6 59 76 44 66
cc@perfumefoundation.org
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